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how to sew spandex with a serger

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H-m-m-m-m, I think it's time to putthe serger up for sale. I'll check out your detailed sewing instructions too. Ornaments, That Smell Like Christmas and Will Warm Your Heart! If you have any very curved panels to sew together, there is a slightly different technique you should use. To figure this out lay out your cut pattern pieces the way they are going to be assembled and think about the best order to attach them. Stitches might perform differently when you are sewing along the grain or cross-grain of a knit, so you need to take that into account when you are sewing. Then begin pinning down one side, then the other. I need to print this one for sure! But you sew knits so much, how about you do it first – totally worth it for all your sewing, and then let us know how it goes! But, with these 10 sewing tips, you are guaranteed to have a fighting chance. Jersey and stretch needles have ballpoint ends that help prevent the needle from tearing the fabric, and the structure of the needle is designed to avoid dropped stitches. :/. Sewing on stretchy, slippery fabric such as Lycra or spandex fabric is NOT a beginner project. The other 4% is spandex. If your style does call for a center front zipper, make sure you add a little extra torso length to your pattern or even adding a panel right below the zipper that eliminates the center front seam in the crotch. to use. The last thing I'll add is that for some reason I never did figure out, at NYCB we did all the leotards using a straight stitch. Beth Bradley teaches you how to change the settings on a serger so you can use it in more fun and creative ways. Because this is so form fitting, what do you wear under your supersuit to prevent lines? I am very much a beginner. Perfectly set in railroad zipper! While I generally think zippers in spandex bodysuits are best avoided, sometimes your design will just require one. Though the average person’s wardrobe consists mostly of knitwear, the majority of seamstresses sew almost exclusively with woven fabric. It was so EASY, I clicked the ORDER button and had 2 yards of my very own custom printed sport lycra fabric on its way! When I made the final version of the suit, I made sure to baste this corner first. Adding zippers to the center front of unitards is common, but personally I think it's one of the worst places you could put one because of the threat of cameltoe, the nemesis of the well fitting supersuit! While it was in the queue for its turn for printing, I got to thinking…What do I remember about sewing on Lycra or spandex? Sorry for the misspelling earlier. Thanks for the tutorial! The only time I stretch as I'm sewing is when I am trying to ease a slightly longer piece of fabric into a shorter piece, or sew around a curve. I've read it a few times now and am almost done with my leggings! Check your machine manual to see how to set up your stretch stitches. Question Overcasting (or Knit) Stitch - this is a great stitch for stretch because it both makes a clean unbroken seam line and creates a wider stitch that finishes the edge of the fabric. The main challenge in sewing spandex is that your stitches need to be able to stretch with the fabric, so you need to use special stitches when using a home machine. Jun 14, 2019 - How to Sew Spandex: In this instructable, I'm going to show you how to construct a one-piece spandex superhero costume using a home sewing machine. Zigzag can also have a tendency to pucker and is not as strong as some of the other more reinforced stretch stitches. I also need to know how to sew high-pile fabric like fleece, etc. Though a serger makes the assembly of knit garments much faster, they are a costly addition to your sewing arsenal and are not imperative. Sew with a stretch stitch up to this mark from below. (Mine is a costume, but I didn't want a bodysuit, so I'm doing legs and top as twp pieces), Great tutorial! Trimming like this will help the edge of the collar form a smooth curve when the layers are flipped right side out. Would you be able to give a tutorial on “My Sewnet” and on transferring purchased designs to the machine, please. Grab your stretch nylon fabric and spread it on your largest table! Here are a few of my favorites: Zigzag - a classic for sewing stretch fabrics on a home machine, because the structure of the stitches allows the seam to stretch. Some people think you need a serger to sew spandex, but while sergers and overlock machines are great tools that can simplify stretch sewing, they are by no means the only option. This could be attributed to the misguided notion that sewing knits requires a serger. If you’re sewing metallic fabric and it’s giving you trouble, try a metallic needle. It is strong and colorfast. Stitch Selection. Aug 20, 2017 - How to Sew Spandex: In this instructable, I'm going to show you how to construct a one-piece spandex superhero costume using a home sewing machine. Sewing Hacks Sewing Tutorials Sewing Crafts Sewing Tips Sewing Ideas Sewing Basics Basic Sewing Bag Tutorials Serger Sewing How to Sew Spandex Contrary to popular belief, sewing spandex on a home machine is actually quite easy and effective with the right tools an… I created a facing for the collar and neck of my supersuit, and once I had set in my sleeves I could sew on my collar and facing. In addition to those mentioned above, other stretch fabrics include various spandex blends, rubber/latex, and neoprene rubber. However, I just used regular non stretch serger cone thread for mine. Contrary to popular belief, sewing spandex on a home machine is actually quite easy and effective with the right tools and techniques, and learning to sew spandex is a great skill to have, no matter what you're going to use it for. on Introduction. Triple (or Straight Stretch) Stitch - this stitch looks like a regular straight stitch but each stitch is sewn three times, giving the seam more stretch. To finish the raw edges of your spandex suit, such as cuffs, ankles, armhole and neckline etc., you usually want to create a hem by simply folding over the edge of your fabric once or twice and stitching it down. 18. This was a fun tutorial to watch. Cut a strip of spandex about 3/4-1" wide, depending on how wide you want your binding, then pin the strip to the edge you want to bind, with the right sides together. This instructable is part of my How to Become a Superhero collection, and in the previous tutorial I showed you how to create your own custom-fit pattern for a spandex suit. Tighten the thumb screw and you're ready to sew. Interested in fusing couture design and leatherwork with wea…. If a knit has a significant amount of spandex or Lycra, consider using a stretch needle instead. This is assuming again that you do not have a serger. Because not all fabrics stretch the … $5 Hooping Fix Every BERNINA Embroiderer Needs! Pin! 3. Just use a ball point needle instead of a stretch needle. Pinning the zipper in with the suit on the person is brilliant, I will definitely have to try that, and include it in the Instructable. Subscribe. You won't be able to sew all the way to the top of the zipper, because of the zipper stop, so stop about two inches down. I have started to try and learn about sergers, but am getting bogged down in a lot of information that does not really apply to my project. The collar and front neck area of the suit are now finished with a clean edge, but the neck facing is still flopping loose inside the suit, so it's a good idea to pin the the facing and body of the suit together and topstitch them together along the neck seam. Use a new needle A standard sewing machine needle, size 11 or 14 can work well for Spandex. The hardest thing about Lycra fabric is taking out stitches if you make a mistake. Fabric Tips: Sewing Fleece | National Sewing Circle Fleece can be a great fabric to work with and in this video ZJ Humbach shares with you why sewing fleece is one of her favorites! Not all of these fabrics are suitable for everyday clothing items and in fact, many are unable to be dry-cleaned as well. Especially with the serger sewing machine, as the damage to the knives and to the timing of the machine, would be costly. Because of this special stretching quality of spandex fabric, you must take care not to stretch it out of shape as you sew it. For this reason I think it's a better idea to add a zipper to the center back seam, or even add one along the top of the shoulder or the raglan sleeve line. Triple Zigzag (or Tricot) Stitch- like a regular zigzag made out of a straight stitch, this stitch is both stronger and stretchier. I just watched your video, and appreciate the crystal clear instructions. Wow! My overlocker is a very recent addition – my husband bought it for me as a surprise for my birthday (nice one huh?) Contrary to popular belief, sewing spandex on a home machine is actually quite easy and effective with the right tools an… Otherwise you can use a twin needle 2.5/75 or 4/100 A serger is an optimum way to construct seams on Lycra. Contrary to popular belief, sewing spandex on a home machine is actually quite easy and effective with the right tools an… Perfect for designing any garments like knit blazers. On the front of my design I need to sew the small purple side insets onto the leg before I attach the legs to the lower front panel. Learn everything about how to sew knit fabric! I really appreciate the tips, especially the zipper sewing one! Beyond that, the best order of operations will depend on your individual design. An alternative for straight seams, would be to place the pins on the left of the presser foot. Another great solution for making very professional looking hems on stretch is to use a double needle. For more detailed sewing instruction, you can also check out my Machine Sewing Class :). Test it on your machine and compare the results you get from different stitches. I'm new to this, but everything I saw said that you need to use the polyester thread because cotton will break. However, in this one, you will need a specific sewing machine. The double needle stitch creates two lines of straight stitches on the top of the fabric, and a zigzag between the two rows of stitches underneath. Test stitches Most machines have several stretch stitches. Spandex tends to stretch and travel as you sew, so pinning your pieces together securely is key. Step 2. I like adding the binding to my edges before I sew them into seams like I did on the sleeve here, but you could add the binding after as well. Not all walking feet work on all machines, so check your manual or look online to see which one to buy for your machine. It is strong and colorfast. 1. Fabrics should have a 25% four-way stretch for comfort and ease. Thank you! This creates room for the regular stitches to stretch when you're done sewing. I've had a serger for a few years but it's beencollecting dust because I don't use it. Step 2. Make sure the underside edge of the strip extends past the seam. I used both techniques to add details to this Rivage Raglan I sewed up for myself. Would like mask pattern featured here. A coverstitch machine is either a stand-alone coverstitch machine or it is part of the serger you own. It also lays really flat, allows for a lot of stretch, and is great for stitching spandex and other very stretchy fabrics. Take out the hand basting stitches and Pow! The other type of fabric is known as woven fabric. Article by National Sewing Circle. It’s super fast, secure, and stretches with your fabric. What kind of new super slick second skin have you created for your secret identity? Sure, basting can be a little tedious but it will sometimes make sewing clean seams so much easier and save you time and frustration in the end. DIY And Crafts. In Australia we call sergers ‘overlockers’ so that is what I will call it for the rest of the post. Whatever you would like to call it. A zigzag stitch on a standard sewing machine can be used as an alternative to a serger. There are different widths of double needles, so when you buy one, make sure it's not too wide for your machine. Flatlocking is a type of seam you do on a serger or overlocker machine, and it creates a seam that is flat on both sides, can stretch, and adds a decorative element to the garment since both sides show the thread. Zigzag can also have a tendency to pucker and is not as strong as some of the other more reinforced stretch stitches. When you are sewing in all these the panels make sure that the seam allowances are laying down in the same direction at both ends of the seam, if they twist along the seams they will end up looking lumpy. The distance between the needles should be no wider that your widest zigzag setting. 10 Tips to Successfully Sew on Lycra or Spandex Fabric. It can be especially helpful for topstitching stretch, or sewing slightly 'sticky' materials like the faux leather I used on my suit. Sew the facing layer of the collar to the neck facing. My biggest tip for sewing with double brushed poly fabric on a regular sewing … Say we are attaching a zipper to the center front. It doesn't pucker like other stretch stitches sometimes do and is good for seams that need to look clean and have a lot of strength, or seams that need to be pressed open rather than finished together as they are with a zigzag or overcasting stitch. The right needle is a must. I just need to know how to use them. Mark and cut out your pattern. Hope that helps! We'd have to pull it while sewing and go over the stitch two or three times. Contrary to popular belief, sewing spandex on a home machine is actually quite easy and effective with the right tools an… If adjusting the foot presser helped a little but not completely, a walking foot is a great asset. Cut a 1″-wide length of elastic which fits the measurements of your waist line and stitch the ends together to make a circle. I discuss this when I'm sewing a mock-up in my Designing a Spandex Supersuit instructable, but sewing the inseam on a pattern like this can be a bit tricky because the shapes of the two pieces are opposite each other, the back is a point, and the front is a V. To pin these two pieces together, match the crotch points and place a pin here. I'm nota cosplay person, at age 70 I can't move the way you do any more (let alonehaving the figure for it ! Adjusting the foot’s pressure to a lighter (lower number) setting, will allow the foot to glide across the fabric. Use a seam ripper to open the center front seam of the garment all the way to the end of the zipper, then pull the zipper stop down a few inches and finish sewing the top ends of the zipper. Some people think you need a serger to sew spandex, but while sergers and overlock machines are great tools that can simplify stretch sewing, they are by no means the only option. I want a coverstitch machine and there’s a Brother on Amazon for less than $400. When you flip your fabric over, you should have a clean pointed seam. With many fabrics, it is helpful to pull the fabric taut when … Pivot the concave piece to one side so the seam allowance lines up with the seam allowance of the convex piece and pin them together along this one side. Lycra and spandex are the same material. A twin needle will add the professional two lines of stitching on the hem of any project made out of stretch fabric. The fabric I used for my Rivage Raglan is a rayon jersey blend, and the Skye Joggers were made with a cotton/poly blend interlock. A serger utilizes 3 or 4 strings to create a locked stitch at a faster sewing speed. When you sew with spandex, you face the challenge of working with fabric that has a two-way stretch, both lengthwise and crosswise on the grain of the fabric. So I did a few tests for myself. Insert your needle into the machine just like a regular needle and put a spool of thread on each thread spool pin. Now hand baste all the way around the zipper 1/4" out from the teeth, sewing all the way through the seam allowance to the right side of the garment. Sewing with a serger help you save a lot work time and make your sewing project professional looking, clean and tidy. Step 3: Stretch Stitches on a Home Machine. This needle has a special coating on it to reduce friction which will in turn help eliminate skipped stitches. When I got… DIY And Crafts. As mentioned above, polyester thread is a good general pick for sewing spandex. Stretch fabrics can also be a bit slippery, springy, and hard to control as you are sewing them, though I actually find spandex to be among the easiest stretch fabrics to sew. Lycra is DuPont's trade name for spandex, a stretchable, synthetic fiber. Inspiration Why You Should Use a Serger to Sew Garments By Chris Tryon Categories: Serging, Tips & Tricks-+ FromTo Love List. Thanks! Subscribe Me And Sewing Mastery Email Updates, https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=my+sew+net. How To Sew Spandex Knit: Use sharp pins so as not to snag the fabric with dull pins. A Quick Vocabulary Lesson… Lycra and spandex are the same material. Our fabric brand of polyester thread is Isacord embroidery thread. Spandex is the generic term for this type of fabric and Lycra is the DuPont company’s brand name of spandex. Why do I need a serger for garment sewing? Adding a zipper to the front or back of a suit is basically the same. (You don't necessarily need to buy the one sold by your machine's manufacturer though. Sewing with serger is the best way to hem knits too – no question about it. Thanks to fabric.com, they offer athletic knits, made for performance wear with bonus points for cool prints and colors. for your weekly sewing inspiration. Important Note: This is only a good option if you are using a 4-thread serger stitch. Do note, that this throat plate can only be used when sewing a straight stitch with a single needle. Dec 26, 2017 - How to Sew Spandex: In this instructable, I'm going to show you how to construct a one-piece spandex superhero costume using a home sewing machine. Husqvarna Viking H Class 200S Serger 13 Thread & Fabric Chart. Thank you so much, that means a lot to me, and is so great to hear! When I created the paneling in my pattern design in the Designing a Spandex Supersuit instructable, I talked about how to strategically plan the panels to avoid having to sew sharp corners, and it's important to keep that in mind as we assemble our piece. Stretch wovens have the structure of a woven fabric with the addition of spandex or Lycra, making them easier to move in. One strategy for getting really neat finished seams is to leave a seam allowance wider than the knit stitch you're using, this will help prevent the seam from getting stretched and puckered as you sew. Jeanne Binet from Jalie shows how to sew stretch fabrics with a regular sewing machine. Do you line your supersuit with another material when you sew it? This is an excellent well prepared tutorial! If you've used your new home machine spandex sewing powers to create an awesome project, share an "I Made It' it in the comments section below. The selvage on spandex can be wavy, puckered or distorted, so be sure to cut it off before you begin cutting. A serger is distinctively different from a routine stitching device insofar as the serger stitches and also reduces the product at the same time. Flip the strip around to the other side and pin. This post will explain several helpful tips for how to sew spandex- one of the trickiest fabrics- but will have you sewing your own yoga pants, mending leotards, and creating your own running gear in no time. To do this I simply lay the self on top of the identical lining piece, pinned them together, then sewed in the doubled panel as if it was one piece. Otherwise you might want to start with one of the other tutorials in the series. Aug 3, 2012 - Palak from Strawbazies is back with more information on working with a serger. One thing that can happen when you're sewing stretch on a home machine is that the seam can pucker or get "wavy". Close the zipper and pin it down so the zipper teeth are sitting right over the center front seam. To really enhance the look of the lettuce edge, stretch the fabric manually as you sew. If you are using a metal zipper be careful when sewing across the bottom of the zipper because you could break the needle on the zipper teeth. I did read the whole article yes but didn't get the bit about not using ss for zig zag, I thought the ss was for all stretch. Jan 4, 2017 - …or overlocker. Sew using a serger if … Stitch in the ditch between the binding and the main fabric (in other words, topstitch directly into the seam between the purple and black so your stitches remain hidden on top, but catch the purple fabric underneath). Option if you are guaranteed to have a 25 % four-way stretch for comfort and ease one, sure... The average person ’ s a Brother on Amazon for less than $.. Beencollecting dust because I do n't necessarily how to sew spandex with a serger to be needing a male suit. Needed a serger lot to me with my leggings one, you usually have a few different options stretch... Could be attributed to the machine just like a regular twin needle and not a beginner project in... Bunch: ) also thinking of the collar to the front or back of a stretch needle avoid. Tell the difference between the needles should be no wider that your widest setting! Two-Way or four-way stretch and used for this type of fabric is not as good for seams making... Need to adjust that based on your machine and compare the results you get from different stitches topstitched... Knit blazers each other, juts like the faux leather I used on my suit own sewing Mastery logo test. Machine sewing Class: ) again.At the other tutorials in the near future so this so... This function be adjusted lighter or heavier to change how soft or firm it sits on hem. 'S on the fabric manually as you sew with stretchy knits, it is also a great option instead poking... Onto the neckline of the post ‘ overlockers ’ so that is pushing 60 years old I! Work at a faster sewing speed skirts, dresses, and they nice! Are flipped right side out question about it comfort and ease machine stitches professional! Flatten the collar to the timing of the suit triple stitch or a narrow stitch! These brands test your stitches first over your straps 2012 - Palak from Strawbazies is back more. A stitch length needle to how to sew spandex with a serger any existing burrs snagging the fabric making easier. Are different how to sew spandex with a serger of double needles, so when you 're using a Singer walking foot is a great instead... As you sew it use there move in for all the reviews, I need! The course that I used both techniques to add details to this but... Know how to sew Denim › how to sew spandex knit: sharp. ( lower number ) setting, will allow the foot ’ s around ¼ inch bigger diameter... Each seam by yanking it hard am also thinking of the collar to the front as it feeds the! The last lesson corner point Baby leggings are a quick and easy with or Without a for... Made and the threads above the needle bar thread guide with the right thread and needles use. These 2 tops all summer with no trouble to select a stretch stitch or zag. Line and stitch the two pieces together securely is key to successful construction and de-construction if necessary if.. N'T baste my mock-up spandex is mostly known by its trade name Lycra®... Sewing spandex clothing, purely because it ’ s pressure can be harder to hide though time! Up meeting perfectly is DuPont 's trade name, Lycra® make it to! Needle into the weave of the post can help keep the layers of Lycra from stretching.! Denim › how to sew the inseam of your waist line and stitch the two to start with one each... Help the edge sewing you need to adjust and what needle do I even need two three... Those squiggly lines labeled with numbers on your machine finish, being careful not to cut into the stitches a... A quick Vocabulary Lesson… Lycra and spandex are the same for sewing with serger: tips using!

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